
Colonial Boston had a sweet tooth, and sugar played an important part of the local economy during that time. Dozens if not hundreds of Boston artisans worked as independent sugar refiners inside sugar houses. These entrepreneurs, called sugar bakers, supplied coffee houses and tea rooms. Over time, they made Boston the center of candy making. Later, larger refineries were built and belonged to a powerful cartel in the 1880s.

Sugars (clockwise from top-left): white refined, unrefined, brown, unprocessed cane sugar
Early Sugar Bakers
Before the era of industrial refining, sugar was processed by small businesses called sugar bakeries. Boston had many of them. The early method of processing sugar involved boiling it in large copper pots called “coppers.” Sometimes sugar bakers used four or five pots in different phases of production. It was a thriving business.
Merchants like John Hancock imported raw sugar from the West Indies, where slave plantations grew sugar cane. Boston had a robust trade with them–part of the “triangular trade.”
The transatlantic triangle trade began with Europeans trading manufactured goods for enslaved people in Africa. Those captives were shipped to work on West Indian sugar plantations. New England merchants then supplied the plantations with commodities like dried fish and lumber, returning to North America with molasses and raw sugar. Notably, French and Dutch Caribbean sugar (from islands like Martinique and Saint-Domingue) was cheaper than sugar from the British West Indies.
In 1764, the Crown levied a tax on the importation of sugar and molasses from the non-British sources in the West Indies. Hancock criticized the tax, and the next year he entered politics by winning election as a Boston selectman. The sugar bakers likely supported Hancock.
Boston Sugar Houses
Ezekiel Cheever (1720-1793), an early Boston sugar baker, had a role in the American Revolution. Born in Charlestown, a descendant of Ezekiel Cheever, the colonial schoolmaster, he was appointed to protect the Boston Tea Party participants in 1773. During the war he worked closely with Gen. Henry Knox as Commissary of Artillery Stores (ordnance equipment). He was buried in Granary Burial Ground in 1793. Ezekiel’s brief biography can be found at the Charlestown Preservation Society.
There must have been several Ezekiels in the sugar business during that time! “How Sweet it is! A History of Sugar and Sugar Refining in the U.S.” by Virginia Mescher, states that Boston tax rolls show an Ezechiel Cheever, sugar refinery, in Charlestown from 1721-1766.
The book “Crooked & Narrow Streets of Boston 1630-1822,” by Annie Haven Thwing, mentions several sugar businesses such as that of Thomas Child, distiller and sugar baker at the corner of Essex and Kingston Streets in the 1730’s. “Opposite Franklin Ave was the sugar house of James Smith & James Murray which was used for Barracks by the British during the Siege,” she wrote.
Sugar bakers used a multi-step process to produce refined white sugar. Raw sugar from the sugar cane was purchased from Cuba. First it had to be washed to remove the molasses (which was sold for the rum trade), then crystallized, dried and formed into cone shaped “loaves.”

A sugarloaf
Boston’s many sugar houses spawned new businesses. In 1764, Dr. James Baker and Irish chocolatier John Hannon started the first chocolate factory in America. Their water-powered gristmill on the Neponset River became the Baker’s Chocolate Company. The Schrafft Candy Co. in 1861 introduced jelly beans and urged customers to send them to Civil War soldiers. Later, the company made boxed chocolates and started a chain of restaurants.
Sugar Refineries
Although independent sugar bakers continued to exist for several decades, larger refineries began to appear in the 1830s. The Boston Sugar Refinery was established on Lewis Street between Webster and Sumner in East Boston in 1834. Powered by a steam engine, it employed 80 people. This boiling and drying process was on a much larger scale than in colonial days. Later, South Boston’s Charles Hersey patented a drying machine called a granulator in 1871. The invention led to Boston’s success as a candy maker. You may remember Necco (New England Candy Co) wafers, Mary Janes and Squirrel Nut Zippers–all made in the Boston area.
The East Boston directory of 1852 listed 41 sugar bakers, most of them on Sumner or Everett Street. Many of them also appear in the 1850 census of East Boston where 38 sugar bakers, all born in Germany, lived at the same address. These men probably worked in one of the larger refineries and lived in nearby factory housing.

The Sugar Trust
In 1887 the Boston Refinery belonged to the Sugar Trust, a monopoly that took advantage of protective tariffs to control the market. Henry O. Havemeyer, a third-generation sugar refiner, formed the trust. Comprised of 17 mostly East Coast sugar refineries, it included four in Boston. The Sugar Trust had a 98 percent monopoly and was highly controversial for its predatory pricing, political influence and fraud. It even won a Supreme Court case in 1895. The high court ruled that the Trust did not violate the Sherman Anti-Trust Act, which prohibited monopolies in trade and commerce. Thus, this sugar monopoly survived because the court considered refining a local activity and not subject to interstate commerce regulations.

Political cartoon showing an old woman labeled “Monopoly Tariff” sitting next to an old shoe labeled “Special Privilege”, around which a number of children are playing; they all represent a “Trust” and include the Sugar Trust.
Boston’s Edwin F. Atkins (1850-1926) was involved in the Sugar Trust and served as vice president and president after Havemeyer’s death in 1907. Atkins, a Boston businessman, managed Cuban sugar purchases for his family business, and he also managed the Bay State Sugar Refining Company. A 2023 Boston Globe article called him “The Sugar Baron of Boston”.
Another Bostonian, John Perrin Spaulding (1832 -1896), also had a role in the Sugar Trust. He had established the Revere Sugar Refinery in 1871 in Charlestown. Spaulding was also a philanthropist, an early benefactor of Helen Keller, and was known throughout Boston as the Sugar King. His Revere Refinery initially remained independent of the Sugar Trust, but Boston-based United Fruit (now Chiquita Brands International) absorbed and finally acquired the business.

The Revere Sugar Refinery.
Enter Domino
The Sugar Trust evolved into the American Sugar Refining Company. It then dominated the United States sugar industry for much of the 20th century, and Domino became one of its brands.
By 1960 American Sugar Refining Company built a new plant in Charlestown to replace the one in South Boston. According to the Boston Globe in April 1961, “Commencing today, the American Sugar Refining Company rededicates itself to a brand-new era of service to Domino’s friends throughout Boston, the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, and all of New England.”
The Domino brand has since gone through many ownership changes, but you can still find that familiar yellow-and-white bag of sugar on grocery shelves.
Images: Sugarloaf By Petr Adam Dohnálek – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=14669401. Kinds of sugar, By Romain Behar – Own work, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1219848. Boston Gazette ad By Boston Gazette – Boston Gazette, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=12128308. And Puck cartoon Pughe, J. S. , Artist. Special privilege / J.S. Pughe. , 1908. N.Y.: J. Ottmann Lith. Co., Puck Bldg. Photograph. https://www.loc.gov/item/2011647293/. Featured image illustration by Chat GPT>
































