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North Adams Mass.

Six New England Presidential Visits and the Stories Behind Them

New England is full of sites that hosted past presidential visits as the country’s leaders came north in search of votes, campaign cash or just a vacation. Here are six of them:

Providence, 1843

Market Square, Providence, 1844.

In 1843, President John Tyler’s presidency was reeling. Tyler was the first vice president to ascend to the presidency because the incumbent died. His detractors let him know it. They dubbed him the ‘Accidental President’ or ‘His Accidency.’

By 1843, Tyler was facing dramatic turnover in his cabinet. His efforts to negotiate the annexation of Texas into the United States was causing an uproar, since Taylor wanted it to join the United States as a slave-holding state.

Buffeted by Washington, Tyler decided to take his program to the people. He headed north, and the wildly popular response encouraged him to mount a third-party bid for office in 1844.

Tyler arrived before dawn on June 15 at Stonington, Conn., where a crowd of 2,000 greeted him.

Travelling north toward Rhode Island, the crowds began swelling around North Kingstown. The New York Herald noted that Providence was unprepared for the huge outpouring of people eager to see the president:

The curiosity to see him was immense. The Common Council of Providence mismanaged everything most horribly; a mob surrounded the cars, and set all order at defiance. An old man cried out, “Here, I’ve had my pocket picked of my pocket book.”

Tyler traveled the streets to Brown University and back to Market Square, where he ate at the Franklin House, an inn that used to stand across from the Market House.

Across the river he did some handshaking at the first indoor mall in America, the Westminster Arcade: “The president then went into a queer looking place called Westminster, and shook hands with 5,000 people,” reported the Herald.

A delegation from Lowell, Mass. buttonholed Tyler and persuaded him to visit that city, as well. He traveled there after the dedication of the Bunker Hill Monument. There he learned of a new disaster brewing for his administration – his attorney general had died. The president decided to return to Washington rather than continue his tour, but his spirits were greatly improved.

Tyler finally dropped out of the 1844 race when the Whigs approved his plan to annex Texas.

The Westminster Arcade remains open to this day in Providence. Today it’s a shopping destination with two stories of apartments.

Sargent’s Purchase, N.H., 1869

Stereo-graph photo of Ulysses Grant atop Mount Washington in 1869.

In the summer of 1869, Washington’s heat drove the new president, Ulysses S. Grant, to visit New England with his wife and children.

On Aug. 27, 1869, the Grant family climbed Mount Washington. They took the three-year-old cog railway, the first cog railway in the world. Sylvester Marsh designed the railway for the mountain’s steep grade. The train has cog wheels that mesh with a toothed rail in the center of the track.

It wasn’t the first train the Grants took on that vacation. They rode from Newport, R.I., to Boston, where a large crowd greeted them. They took another train to Nashua, N.H., where they were again greeted by thousands of well-wishers. On they went to Manchester, where Grant toured the printing department of the Amoskeag Mills and greeted some 3,000 millworkers lined up to see him.

In Concord, Grant told the welcoming crowd that it was his first visit to New Hampshire and he was sorry an injury prevented him from shaking hands.

At 9 a.m. the next day, the presidential party left the Crawford House in Crawford Notch, N.H., for what was then called the Sky Railroad. According to news reports, the president was particularly struck with the simplicity and safety of the air brake.

The Grants seated themselves in the car and moved skyward. A cannon was fired when they reached the summit and the president was told the Harvards had lost the boat race. “Well I am very sorry to hear it,” Grant said.

After lunch, the presidential party headed to Littleton and then Saratoga Springs, N.Y.

The Cog Railway to the top of Mount Washington has never stopped operating.

Brattleboro, Vt., 1877

Brooks House, Brattleboro, Vt.

Until 2000, history counted the election of 1876 the closest contest for the White House ever. Rutherford B. Hayes, an Ohio Republican, won the Electoral College. Samuel Tilden, a Democrat, won the popular vote.

The two parties hammered out the compromise of 1877, in which Hayes got the White House and the Democrats got everything else. They won an end to the Reconstruction period of federal control of the South.

Without federal troops to intervene when African-Americans were harassed, Democrats soon took control of the southern statehouses. Their anti-black policies that survived for decades.

As a longtime supporter of Reconstruction, Hayes wanted to “wipe out the color line.” His efforts at promoting racial harmony failed. Perhaps no one could have succeeded.

In his first months in office, Hayes had to authorize the military to repulse Mexican criminal bandits terrorizing the border and put down the Great Railroad Strike of 1877.

He needed an escape, and Vermont was the tonic. Hayes’ grandfather, Rutherford, built a home at West Brattleboro in 1780. His son, also Rutherford, built at Dummerston before moving to Delaware, Ohio, where the president Rutherford Hayes was born in 1822.

On his 1877 return visit, Hayes stayed with his cousin William Bigelow in West Brattleboro. Bigelow was said to be the wealthiest man in Vermont at one time. A large reception was held at the Brooks House in Brattleboro, and the time spent in Vermont restored Hayes’ outlook.

Vermont would retain a special place in Hayes’ life. After leaving office, he was a regular visitor. Some reports held that he had become engaged to Mary Ann Hayes Bigelow, who had been host to Hayes in 1877 with her husband William. The wedding had been delayed because of the death of Mary Ann’s son Russell, and Rutherford died before it could take place.

Hayes ordered Dummerston Granite shipped to Ohio from the family’s Vermont homestead and used it as the base for the stone that marks his and his wife’s grave.

Today Brattleboro’s Hotel Brooks is still open and operating as a shopping and dining destination.

Adams, Mass., 1897

Postcard showing statue of William McKinley at Adams, Mass.

Adams and North Adams, Mass., never had a better friend than William McKinley. His trade policies strengthened the textile industry and helped the Berkshire Cotton Manufacturing Company grow to be a world leader in textile manufacturing.

The Plunkett family, who owned the mills, invited McKinley to stay with them twice. In 1897 he was given the honor of laying the cornerstone for the Adams Free Library. To this day the library contains a chair that was especially constructed for McKinley for the occasion.

The Plunketts also arranged for him to give a speech to the thousands of attendees at the Hoosac Valley Agricultural Fair on Sept. 22, 1897.

McKinley would return to Adams for a week stay beginning June 21, 1899, during which he was treated more like royalty. He traveled through Holyoke, Westfield, Pittsfield and Springfield, encountering huge crowds at each.

It was North Adams that pulled out all the stops. The city erected a viewing stand for McKinley to watch a special parade that featured bands, school children, military units and mounted police. Pressed to give an impromptu speech, McKinley marveled at the prosperity manufacturing had brought to the area:

I know something about North Adams from my visit two years ago, but as I rode through the beautiful streets of your city today I must confess I was wholly unprepared to witness its splendid progress and prosperity.

When McKinley was assassinated by an anarchist in 1901, no town mourned the loss more than Adams. The town erected a statue in his honor that stands to this day in front of the library he dedicated. It was rededicated in 1903.

Poland Springs, Maine, 1921

The summer of 1921 was especially gay at the Poland Springs resort, which the Ricker family had been running in one form or another since 1793. Motor traffic had never been heavier, and the first week in August was filled with dancing, tennis and golf.

Poland Spring House

That week came to a climax with a visit from President and Mrs. Warren G. Harding, who had driven from Lancaster, N.H. There they had been staying with Harding’s secretary of war, John Wingate Weeks.

On Aug. 4, 1921, the Hardings arrived in Poland Springs for lunch after driving 200 miles from Lancaster and stopping at a sanitarium in Oxford, Maine. There the president promised World War I veterans, mostly suffering from gas attacks, that the government would do everything it could to help them.

He had asked that Poland Springs do nothing special for his visit, but the caddies were noticeably excited. The president and his wife ate lunch and then he played a round of golf. That night, Harding left from Portland for Washington on the presidential yacht Mayflower.

The Poland Springs resort is still open and still offering a challenging course for golfers.

Groton, Conn., 1952

President Harry Truman laying the keel for the USS Nautilus.

On Saturday June 14, 1952, President Harry Truman visited the shipyard at Groton, Conn., to celebrate laying the keel for the USS Nautilus, the first nuclear submarine ever built.

Truman, who ordered the bombings of Nagasaki and Hiroshima, said he hoped it would begin an age where the discoveries that fueled development of the atom bomb would be applied to industry in ways that would benefit society.

Truman envisioned planes and ships powered by atomic energy, as well as power plants driven by this inexpensive new generating process:

Such a possibility would revolutionize the technological basis of our civilization. It could provide the answer to the crying need for sources of power in the underdeveloped areas of the world. It could mean industrial development for areas now held back because they have no supply of coal, or oil, or waterpower.

Truman said he prayed the submarine would never have an enemy and be tied up someday as an historic relic of a threat of war long passed.”

While all Truman’s projections didn’t come to pass, the Nautilus is in fact tied up and open for tourists as a museum and library.

Of course Truman didn’t forget politics in his speech, praising Sen. William Bento for standing up to Sen. Joseph McCarthy and his red-baiting tactics.

Truman’s private journal hints at a more curmudgeonly president behind the hoopla. He wrote:

“Well here I am, Sunday evening all alone. Margaret came to the Great White Prison for the week end on Friday 13th. I went by train to Groton (rhymes with rotten) to speak on atomic energy for peace time use. Should have flown both ways but my staff decided that it would be bad weather going up. It wasn’t.”

And of the frustrations of the White House life that was coming to a close, he said, “Lesson: Don’t raise your boy to be President of the United States.”

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The Madness — or Murderousness? — of Vermont’s Ezra Smith

To this day nobody really knows what happened in August of 1877 to Deacon Ezra Smith of Vergennes, Vt. Was he engulfed by madness? Was he always secretly evil? Or was he an innocent man who chose the worst possible moment to slip from the path of righteousness?

Either way, within a year he would be penniless and on the run for his life, his reputation destroyed.

Ezra Smith

Ezra was 54 in 1877. He was considered a well-off businessman, worth perhaps $20,000. He dealt in stoves and tin ware with two other men – Baldwin and Stewart – in Vergennes. And he had a sizable farm in Addison, Vt.

Ezra had a long marriage to his wife Cordelia, and they lived in a nice home in downtown Vergennes on Green Street. They had a son Frank, 21; daughter Mary, 25. Ira Mills, the 10-year-old orphan son of Cordelia’s sister, Adelaide Mills, lived with the family in Vergennes.

Son Frank, meanwhile, had recently married and lived at the family farm in Addison.

Ezra served as a deacon in the Addison Baptist Church, and the family belonged to the Baptist Church in Vergennes.

Addison Community Baptist Church

The marriage between Cordelia and Ezra Smith, benefiting from Vermont’s growing economy, seemed cordial and peaceful . No one ever challenged that appearance.

Trouble

The trouble started simply enough when Cordelia started feeling ill on Aug. 4, 1877. Doctors concluded she had cholera. Because of her age, doctors presumed, she struggled to shake off the illness. After eight days of vomiting and diarrhea, Cordelia died.

During those eight days, Cordelia’s neighbors, friends and relatives would come to visit. They would later note that it seemed the Smiths received a lack of support from church friends. Ezra then had to provide much of his wife’s care.

Ezra was later described as exhausted, frazzled and haggard during the period of Cordelia’s illness. His major support came from a young neighbor, Mary Champlin, who attended to Cordelia and stayed in the house during the illness.

On August 12, Ezra prepared some beef broth for Cordelia. She complained of its bitterness and later passed away in her sleep. Ezra closed Cordelia’s open mouth and bound it shut with a sheet to prepare her for her funeral.

Then, neighbors say, he slipped into the next bedroom and made love to Mary Champlin, his wife’s body still warm.

Mary Champlin

Mary Champlin, 31, lived in Vergennes with her four children. Mary’s husband worked in Essex, N.Y., and stayed home only for a day or two a month. Mary’s husband had left her once because Mary had taken up with a lawyer from North Adams, Mass. But they managed to patch up their marriage.

In January of 1877, Ezra first met Mary at a church social held at his home . The children and the adults at the social played a game, and as penalty for losing Ezra had to kiss Mary. Mary was not particularly attractive, as her friends describer her, but that silly kiss was Ezra’s undoing, he would later say.

As Cordelia lay sick, tongues began wagging in town. They deemed Mary’s presence in the home improper. Mary’s husband, Wilbur, tried to persuade Mary to leave town, but she refused and he left with their children.

Cordelia’s father only learned of her sickness a day before she died. He ordered doctors to investigate, and they grew suspicious. They suspected poison. So Cordelia’s father hired Solon Burroughs, one of Ezra’s friends to worm his way further into Ezra and Mary’s confidence.

lydia-sherman-arsenic-bottle

Wilbur Champlin acknowledged he had a quantity of arsenic that he used for preserving birds as trophies. Mary had access to it, he said. Cordelia’s father had her body investigated by Peter Collier, a chemist at the University of Vermont.

Finally, the sheriff made three arrests: Ezra, Mary and Solon Burroughs. Ezra confided to Solon that he believed that all three of them would hang if they couldn’t find a way to stop the investigation. Egged on by Burroughs, Ezra wrote to Professor Collier offering to pay him $350 to stop his investigation.

All Ezra accomplished in writing the note was to add another piece of evidence to the case against him.

Downward Spiral

The local Vergennes prosecutor had his case sewn up by December. He invited two high-powered lawyers to assist him –ex-Governor J.W. Stewart of Middlebury and Col. W.G. Veazey of Rutland.

John Wolcott Stewart

Gen. J.H. Lucia of Vergennes and Henry Ballard, a dynamic young lawyer from Burlington, would handle the defense. Ezra’s lawyers had the trial postponed in December of 1877 to give them a chance to prepare. It would finally begin in June of 1878.

Meanwhile, in December word leaked out that Ezra and Mary were in adjoining cells in the Middlebury jail. They had been passing love notes to each other through a stovepipe hole in the wall between them.

“Their affection for each other seems as ardent as before their arrest,” the newspaper reported.

In March of 1878, with Ezra Smith locked in jail, his creditors seized his house and property in Vergennes and his farm in Addison. They were put up for sale. With his property valued at $6,300, Ezra’s debts amounted to more than $8,000.

Vergennes, Vermont

The Trial

The trial began in June 1878, and few doubted Ezra’s guilt. He was labelled a wife-poisoner and perhaps a serial killer. His sister-in-law, Adelaide Mills, had died in circumstances similar to Cordelia’s. Ezra’s father-in-law had that case investigated, though after four years little evidence could be found.

Testimony established that the relationship between Mary and Ezra had been unwholesome. Stolen kisses witnessed by a shopkeeper, whispering between the two and glimpses of Ezra with his arm around Mary cemented the story.

The professor, Peter Collier, testified that Cordelia’s internal organs seemed unusual. And he found traces of arsenic in her internal organs, but he acknowledged he didn’t find enough arsenic to prove it had killed her.

Solon Burroughs testified that his old friend Deacon Ezra Smith was not all he appeared. He told of crooked business deals that Smith had participated in. And, he said, Smith swore that as long as he had a penny to his name, Mary Champlin would never go hungry.

Satyriasis?

On the final day of testimony, crowds packed the courtroom anticipating they would finally hear from Ezra. But they were disappointed. The final push from Ezra’s defense came from a Doctor Goldsmith.

“There is a form of insanity in which an old man who has always lived a virtuous life becomes morbidly infatuated with some woman and has an uncontrollable desire to have sexual intercourse with her at unusual places and times,” he said.

It is a disease which commonly attacks one of advanced age in which there is not only abnormal desire, but unusual power. It is called satyriasis; I have met with such cases. This desire follows many species of insanity it becomes an overruling passion; an old man with not only the great infatuation, but also the unnatural power such as the State has claimed in this case, I should judge was inflicted with this disease to such an extent, that he would be in a manner irresponsible; never saw a person afflicted in this way when under 50 or over 80 years of age; this is most common in women.

The Satyr’s Family by Albrecht Durer

Innocent, but Disgraced

Even Solon Burroughs acknowledged that he questioned his old friend Ezra’s sanity.

“I would say of his actions that he was insane,” he said. “[That] could explain some things I saw in no other way.”

The prosecutors pounced on the defense maneuvers. It was clear, they explained eloquently, that Ezra Smith had been backed into a corner by their case. Finally, he was left only with a ludicrous claim of insanity.

Ezra’s lawyers, meanwhile, hammered at the circumstantial nature of the case against Ezra. Ballard said prosecutors had entered no proof, only possible motive, into the record. It was a stunning coup that would help build the young defense lawyer’s career. The prosecutors, so sure of the motive, had failed to nail down enough sure evidence.

The jury voted 11-to-1 on the first ballot. Finally that one hold-out juror changed his vote. Ezra was found innocent. Vermonters were shocked at the decision. It left Ezra and Mary facing only a charge of adultery. Mary moved to New York, where she followed the trial with interest.

Ezra was bankrupted and disgraced. Soon after the trial he relocated to New York. And Cordelia’s father vowed to pursue him tirelessly for new evidence in the case.

This story last updated in 2022.

Image of Addison Baptist Church By Mfwills – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=11365113.

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Happy Jack Chesbro, the Yankees’ Bill Buckner of 1904

In 1904, Happy Jack Chesbro threw a wild pitch as painful to New York Yankees’ fans as Bill Buckner’s error was to Red Sox fans 80 years later.

Jack Chesbro

Chesbro was a great pitcher having a great season, but he was no match for Boston’s merry band of fanatic fans. On Oct. 10, 1904, Chesbro may have been so unnerved by the antics of the self-proclaimed ‘Royal Rooters’ that he uncorked a wild pitch that cost the New York Highlanders the game and the pennant.

Chesbro won 41 games for the team now known as the Yankees, a record for the modern era of baseball. It is a record that will probably never be beaten.

He was the first Yankee pitcher, the first to throw a spitball and the first to execute a suicide squeeze. And he was the New York Yankees’ first goat.

Jack Chesbro

Jack Chesbro was born John Dwight Cheesebrough on June 5, 1874 in Houghtonville, Mass., a village in North Adams. His father was a shoemaker.

In 1894, he got a job as an attendant at Middletown State Homeopathic Hospital in Middletown, N.Y., so he could play for the mental hospital’s baseball team, the Asylums. An inmate gave him the nickname Happy Jack because of his cheery disposition.

He played for amateur and minor league teams until he signed with the Pittsburgh Pirate in 1899.In 1903, he joined a new American League team, the Highlanders. He threw the first pitch on Opening Day for the team.

In 1904, he started throwing the spitball, an almost unhittable pitch. He threw 14 straight wins, a franchise record broken 97 years later by Roger Clemens. That year he won 41 games, a record unsurpassed in the modern era of baseball. His pitching carried the team to a pennant race with the World Champion Boston Americans, now the Red Sox.

At the end of the season, a two-day series in New York would decide the American League Champion. All Boston had to do was to win one.

The Royal Rooters

The Royal Rooters in New York, 1904. Photo courtesy Boston Public Library.

Jack Chesbro started the first game before cheering New York fans and Boston’s Royal Rooters, led by Nuf Ced McGreevey. McGreevey, whose first name was really Michael, owned a tavern near the Huntington Avenue Grounds called “Third Base.: Sports fans stopped there before they headed home. McGreevey ended arguments about sports by pounding on the bar and declaring “Nuf Ced.”

Nuf Ced’s Royal Rooters included politicians, gamblers, businessmen, ballplayers, Tin-Pan Alley stars, diehard fans, coach drivers, Mayor John F. “Honey Fitz” Fitzgerald and Joseph “Sport” Sullivan, the gambler who fixed the 1919 World Series.

Jack Chesbro pitching for the Highlanders.

The night before the big 1904 series, 200 Royal Rooters boarded a train for New York to cheer the Americans to victory and a pennant. They paraded up 165^th Street to Hilltop Park carrying their banners and singing Tessie, the song that annoyed and unnerved their opponents.

During the game, the Royal Rooters more than held their own against the hometown fans with a hired minstrel band, and their own mascot who carried a beanpot on top of a pole.

The Highlanders led 2-0 until Boston scored two in the seventh inning, quieting the home team fans so the Royal Rooters could be heard throughout the park.

At the top of the ninth inning, Chesbro threw a slider over the head of the batter, allowing the runner on third to score and Boston to take the lead. Yankees’ manager Clark Griffith fell to the ground in anguish, the Highlander fans fell stone silent and the exultant Royal Rooters sang Tessie.

Chesbro, distraught, sat silently on the bench as the Highlanders failed to score in the bottom of the ninth. He had lost the first great pennant race in baseball history.

Aftermath

Happy Jack Chesbro pitched for the Highlanders until 1909, when he was waived and picked up by the Boston Red Sox. He pitched one game for the Red Sox, his last, the season finale against the New York Yankees.

He had married Mabel Suttleworth in 1896. They retired to a farm in their hometown, Conway, Mass., and raised poultry. Chesbro played semipro ball, coached for the Massachusetts Agricultural College (now the University of Massachusetts at Amherst) and the Washington Senators. He also managed a minor league team. He tried to make a comeback, but failed.

Fans talked about the famous wild pitch for years afterward. Chesbro claimed it was a passed ball that the catcher should have caught.

Jack Chesbro died on Nov. 6, 1931. In 1946 he was inducted into the Baseball Hall of Fame.

Read more about the historic rivalry between the Yankees and Red Sox in Red Sox vs. Yankees, The Great Rivalry by Murray and Frederic Frommer.

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Allan McCann is Called to the Bridge at Pearl Harbor. What He Sees Turns His Stomach.

Commander Allan R. McCann was in pajamas at 7:48 on the morning of December 7, 1941. He was a long way from his home town of North Adams, Mass. He was in paradise, in fact . . . Honolulu, Hawaii.

A 1917 graduate of the U.S. Naval Academy, McCann had been given command of a submarine group and was in a stateroom aboard the submarine tender, Pelias. The vessel had arrived at Pearl Harbor in November just days earlier after sailing from San Diego to be fitted out for service.

Commander Allan McCann

McCann was senior officer on board and was doing his daily calisthenics when he received an alert that he was wanted on the bridge. He rushed there, still in his pajamas. What he saw when he got there “turned my stomach upside down.”

Allan McCann Watches

The Pelias was situated in a backwater area of the Pearl Harbor Base. A former passenger liner, it towered above the nearby submarines and offered a panoramic view of Battleship Row. Seven battleships had clustered in a row: California, Oklahoma, Maryland, West Virginia, Tennessee, Arizona and Nevada.

The first seamen to see the incoming Japanese planes attacking Pearl Harbor mistook them for friendly aircraft. But as McCann watched, no one could mistake what was happening. McCann expected the planes to attack the Pelias, but they did not.

Photograph taken from a Japanese plane shortly after the Pearl Harbor attack began. U.S. Naval History and Heritage Command Photograph.

In planning the attack, the Japanese had photographed the ships it planned to target. Because the Pelias had newly arrived in port, the Japanese probably didn’t know about its presence. They’d apparently made no decision about whether to target it or not.

Instead, the Japanese focused their efforts on the big battleships, sinking four of them outright and killing more than 2,400 people. They ignored the submarines and the fuel depot. As the attack unfolded, McCann and Capt. William Wakefield considered their options. They contemplated putting to sea to get out of the harbor, where the ship would at least make for a moving target. But the the flaming wreckage of ships blocked the harbor and made escape impassable.

What To Do

McCann and Wakefield were at first reluctant to have the men on board the ship respond. For starters, the ship had only eight antiaircraft guns, four outdated 23-caliber guns and four 50 caliber guns.

USS Arizona

To make matters worse, the men were new recruits. They had not had any training on the weapons they did have access to. McCann and Wakefield feared that the men would wind up hitting U.S. ships rather than the Japanese planes.

As the scope of the attack became clear (the Japanese had more than 400 planes on the way), the sailors were given the orders to begin firing on the Japanese planes with the limited weapons and training they did have. They were joined by sailors on a nearby submarine firing with a deck machine gun.

The results were predictable. The crew reported that they perhaps shot down one plane and may have hit another, forcing it to return to the aircraft carrier that had brought it.

Unthinkable Cowardice

The incident disgusted McCann, but not because of his men’s performance. Virtually none had been in any kind of combat before and few had been to even a target practice. It was the “unbelievable” and “shabby” and “absurd” notion of the Japanese attacking with no declaration of war that disgusted him, according to Silent Victory: The U.S. Submarine War Against Japan.

To the 25-year plus veteran, it was an unthinkable act of cowardice. McCann, best known for his years in the submarine service, played a major role in rescuing the sailors trapped in 1939 in the U.S.S. Squalus off the Maine coast. He, would serve a number of roles as the war continued.

McCann distinguished himself as commander of the battleship Iowa in the Pacific and retired a rear admiral. He was also chosen to transport President Harry Truman to the Potsdam Peace Conference. As part of that mission he personally informed Truman of the success of the U.S. mission to bomb Hiroshima. He died in 1978.

This story updated in 2022.

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